Saturday, June 16, 2012

Supersize Viands

I watched a fascinating programme in the week about why we’ve all become fat.  At his point, I’m tempted to say, along with Winnie The Poo, “How long does getting thin take?”

Apparently it’s all the fault of sugar and corn syrup not, as was once thought, fat.  I mean, I don’t suppose fat makes you thin, but you know what I mean.  According to The Prog, an American dietician visited Britain in the 1950’s, watched us all whaling into the fish and chips (there were black and white grainy pictures of happy Brits doing just that) drew back in fastidious horror and promptly went home and started a crusade against fat. Not that, as far as I could see, the fish and chip lovers were fat, but hey, why let the facts get in the way of a good theory?  That prompted a whole range of low-fat foods which, of course, tasted naff.  They tasted better, everyone worked out, if they were sweeter...

Mind you, reading the menus of days gone by, it’s astonishing that we’re not all built like greyhounds in comparison.  Here’s the Victorians at breakfast in an excerpt from “The Servants’ Guide and Family Manual”.

“A fine damask tablecloth is laid over a baize or cloth cover; a plate. two small knives and two small forks are placed for each person, the serviette is folded mitre shape and stands on the plate, small glass cream-jugs and sugar basins for the use of two persons are placed the length of the table.”

In case you should get carried away and start whipping out the teapot, The Servants’ Guide and Family Manual carries a stern warning.

“Urn or teapot stands worked in beads or Berlin wool (I wonder what that was?) are bad style on a breakfast table.”

So no beading at breakfast.  “The stands should be of silver, electro-plate or china”

Yes, but where’s the grub?  We still haven’t got to the nub or crux of the matter, as The Servants’ Guide continues, “The sideboard is covered with a cloth, rows of knives, forks and tablespoons, one or two dozen(!) plates are placed upon it, also the cold viands...”

Thank heavens for that!  Grub’s up, everyone.

The “Cold viands” are “tongue, ham, game-pies, potted meat and the like; the hot viands” (I’m going to try and bring the word “viands” into ordinary conversation and see if anyone has a clue what I’m on about) “should be placed on a side table.” The H.V.’s are: “eggs and bacon, dressed fish, kidneys, cutlets, boiled chicken, savoury omelettes and roast partridges.  These things are served in silver dishes with hot water or a spirit lamp underneath.”

After a blow-out of that size, it’s quite a relief to see that lunch is described as, “an inconsequential meal” and as “a slight repast”.  Still, there’s always dinner to look forward to...

Supersize viands, anyone?

2 comments:

  1. In my young and carefree (=thin) days we used to rank hotels on the basis of breakfast (quality of porridge and scrambled egg in particular). Interesting to note that breakfast a la 'servants' guide' is a feast in comparison to lunch... perhaps the old saying about breakfasting like a king, etc., had something in it. And maybe it's late-night chocofeasting that did for me.

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  2. Ah yes, the late night munchies.... Remember the wise old saying:
    "Fridge pickers wear bigger knickers."
    *Sigh*

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